Have you ever heard of jukusei sushi?
Jukusei sushi is aged or matured sushi. It overturns the idea of fresh fish and instead tries to bring out the maximum possible flavour out of the fish through ageing. Just how does the flavour of aged sushi change from the other sushi I’ve eaten?
Today I visited Wadanoya, an aged sushi shop in Ebisu, Tokyo that receives direct deliveries from Kyushu.
The restaurant is located between Daikanyama Station and Ebisu Station, just a 5-minute walk from either. It’s located on the lower first floor of a building.
They offer both relaxing counter seats and horigotatsu, or sunken kotatsu seats. When there aren’t a lot of customers in I recommend eating at the counter where you can chat with the owner.
The meal I ate was a set course. The starter was sashimi which I had with white wine. This fish was caught in the Goto Islands.
Next up was tempura – Satsuma chicken and seasonal vegetables. The chicken was juicy with a light dressing. It’s eaten with salt and ponzu. The summer vegetables were okura and eggplant. These were also grown in Kyushu.
This was followed by horse-meat sashimi from Kumamoto served with hot Kabosu Kosho. Adding even just a little to the meat allows for enjoyment of a completely different flavour. The meat is soft, melts in your mouth and doesn’t smell.
Next was sea urchin from Nagasaki Prefecture topped with butter shoyu and fish offcuts. The butter shoyu gives the sea urchin and offcuts an extremely rich flavour. It was a luxurious dish with a hearty serving of fresh sea urchin.
And then the star of the show which I couldn’t wait for – aged sushi!
This fish is meichidai, or grey large-eye bream, which had been aged for one week. My first impression was “How rich!” It’s a little thick and has a deep flavour. Its good, rich taste fills your entire mouth.
I also ate other aged sushi too including mackerel and tuna. The mackerel I had was aged in the refrigerator for 3 days and the tuna one week. It might have been the first time I had ever eaten such thick, smooth tuna.
The owner said that each respective fish is aged for the right period under the right temperature conditions. They go to such lengths to create these rich flavours!
Having enjoyed my fill with a full belly the last item on the course was a large serving of dagoshiru soup. It contains lots of ingredients like chewy dango, carrots and greater burdock. It had a subtle and mild taste.
Wadanoya is a popular restaurant that originates from Osaka. It’s sure to end up popular in no time in Ebisu too. The restaurant is celebrating its opening until the end of October 2018 by serving their 28-item sushi course for ¥10,000 down from the regular price of ¥12,000.
Take advantage of this special price and try aged sushi for yourself.
Address: Echo Daikanyama B1F, 1-30-14 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya, Tokyo
6-minutes on foot from Ebisu Station via JR Lines
4-minutes on foot from Daikanyama Station via Toyku Lines
Opening Hours: 18:00～24:00 Last Orders 23:30)
No Fixed Holidays.
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